- Choose the rear ladder left vertical rails — the consensus mounting location among Grenadier owners for clearance and access.
- Assemble each clamp — insert one thin rubber bushing into the 3″ Lower Clamp and one into the Universal Upper Clamp, then join with four M4 cap-head screws.
- Position the first clamp 2″ above the top ladder step — Universal Upper Clamp facing outward, M8 knob through the 8th hole from the top of the Hi-Lift.
- Fit the remaining two clamps evenly along the jack body to spread the load.
- Check clearances — jack base must clear the rear bumper; jack top must not contact the taillight with the rear door fully open.
Why the Rear Ladder Is the Right Mount
A 48-inch Hi-Lift jack is one of the most awkward recovery tools to store on a Grenadier. It's long, heavy, and slick with grease. Roof mounts work but require a ladder of their own for access. Cargo floor mounts consume space and rattle. The Utility Belt rail can hold a jack horizontally, but the length makes it impractical on most builds.
The rear ladder solves all three problems at once. The jack mounts vertically on the left vertical rails, which keeps it off the roof, out of the cargo bay, and at arm height for a single operator to lift off without assistance. The DVA clamp system grips the ladder's round vertical rails directly — no bolt-through, no drilling into the Grenadier's structure.
"If and when I can buy a rear ladder, I intend to bolt mine to the ladder sides, with a rigid tow bar for company."
Forum consensus is strong: the rear ladder is the preferred location. The primary variable is whether you ordered the factory rear ladder. If not, adding one unlocks this mount plus several other accessory options including the DVA Recovery Board Carrier.
What's in the Kit
The DVA Hi-Lift Mounting System ships with everything needed for a clean installation. No sourcing separate hardware or modifying the Grenadier.
| Qty | Component | Function |
|---|---|---|
| 3× | 3″ Lower Clamp | Grips the Hi-Lift jack body from below; rubber-lined to prevent rattle and finish damage |
| 3× | Universal Upper Clamp | Wraps the ladder's vertical rail; rubber bushing interface protects rail surface |
| 3× | M8 Mounting Knob | Hand-tightened knob that threads through the Hi-Lift's hole pattern to lock the jack in position |
| 12× | M4 Cap Head Screws | Join Lower Clamp + Upper Clamp + bushings into each assembled clamp unit (4 per clamp) |
| 6× | Thin Rubber Bushings | One per clamp half — cushion the contact surface between the ladder rail and the clamp |
DVA updated the clamp width from 2″ to 3″ based on owner feedback. The longer clamp provides a more secure grip on the ladder rail and prevents rotation under trail vibration. If you have an earlier kit with 2″ clamps, the updated 3″ version is available as a replacement.
Step-by-Step Installation
The process runs in five steps and requires only the included hardware. A 3mm Allen key (for the M4 screws) and your hands are all the tools needed.
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Assemble each clamp unit
Insert one thin rubber bushing into the cavity of the 3″ Lower Clamp and one thin rubber bushing into the Universal Upper Clamp. The rubber bushings protect the ladder's rail surface and eliminate metal-to-metal rattle. Use four M4 cap-head screws to join the Lower Clamp, Upper Clamp, and bushings into one assembled unit. Repeat for all three clamp sets before moving to the ladder.
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Mount the first (top) clamp to the ladder
Position the first assembled clamp approximately 2 inches above the top step of the rear ladder, with the Universal Upper Clamp facing outward (away from the Grenadier's body). This is the primary load-bearing clamp — it establishes the height of the entire jack. Route the M8 Mounting Knob through the 8th hole from the top of the Hi-Lift jack and thread it finger-tight to hold position while you set the remaining clamps.
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Position and fit the lower two clamps
With the jack suspended from the top clamp, slide the remaining two clamp units onto the ladder rails at even intervals below — roughly one-third and two-thirds of the way down the jack. The goal is three contact points that spread lateral load evenly across the Hi-Lift's body. Route an M8 knob through the corresponding Hi-Lift holes at each clamp position and thread finger-tight.
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Check clearances before final tightening
Before torquing anything down, perform two clearance checks. First: confirm the base of the Hi-Lift clears the top of the rear bumper with margin. Second: open the rear door to its full swing and confirm the top of the jack does not contact the taillight assembly. These clearances vary slightly by Hi-Lift model (48″ vs 60″) — adjust clamp position on the ladder as needed. If you're using a 60″ jack, you may need the top clamp 1–2 holes lower to keep the head below the taillight.
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Final tighten all hardware
Once clearances are confirmed, tighten all M4 cap-head screws with a 3mm Allen key. Tighten all three M8 knobs hand-tight plus a quarter-turn — no wrench needed. If you plan to permanently secure the mount (not removing the jack regularly), apply Loctite to the M4 screws for added reliability against vibration. For regular removal and re-installation, leave the M4s at tight-but-removable torque and leave the M8 knobs at hand-tight.
Always verify rear-door clearance before your first drive. Open the door to 90° and to full swing. The Hi-Lift head must clear the taillight at all positions. If it contacts, lower the jack by one or two holes in the Hi-Lift hole pattern and recheck.
Positioning Variables by Hi-Lift Model
The DVA system is designed for the most common Hi-Lift configurations. A few positioning considerations vary by model:
- 48″ Hi-Lift: First clamp 2″ above top step, M8 knob at 8th hole from top. Clearances comfortable on most Grenadier ladder configurations.
- 60″ Hi-Lift: Mount sits taller. Start the top clamp at the same 2″ reference but route the M8 knob lower in the hole pattern (10th–12th hole from top) to drop the overall height and ensure taillight clearance. Recheck clearance with door open.
- With rooftop tent or rear-mounted cargo: Confirm the Hi-Lift doesn't conflict with rear-overhang accessories before locking in the vertical position. Side-shifting the clamps 1″ outward on the ladder rail can sometimes resolve minor interference.
Owner Experience in the Field
"I'm pretty happy with my mount of my ladder using the DVA mechanics bracket. Going up to Lake Tahoe this weekend and will be out bouncing in the mountains, I'll let you all know how it holds up. And it was asked by someone. There are no issues with rear ultrasonics at all."
The ultrasonic sensor question comes up frequently. The Grenadier's rear proximity sensors sit on the bumper, not the ladder, so the clamp-mounted jack doesn't interrupt their field of view. Multiple owners have confirmed normal sensor behavior after installation.
"Looking for advice on mounting a Hi-Lift jack on the side of the roof, using the tie down rails. Has this been covered in another thread? My searches for past threads have turned up empty."
Roof-rail mounting is the alternative some owners consider first — it's a natural spot for long gear on an overlanding rig. The problem is access: retrieving a 48-inch 17-pound jack from a roof rail is a two-person job on most terrain. The ladder mount keeps the jack at a height where a single operator can lift it off cleanly. That access advantage is why forum owners consistently land on the ladder as the preferred location once they've tried both.
Common Installation Mistakes
- Skipping clearance checks before final tightening. The only adjustment that matters is position on the ladder rail — once you've torqued everything down, repositioning requires starting over. Check clearances first, tighten second.
- Forgetting the rubber bushings. The system without bushings creates metal-to-metal contact between the clamp and the ladder rail. This will leave permanent marks on the rail and cause rattle at highway speed. Bushings are essential, not optional.
- Using only two clamps instead of three. The kit includes three clamps because three contact points are required to prevent the jack from rotating under trail vibration. Two-clamp installs will shift position over time.
- Over-tightening the M8 mounting knobs. The M8 knobs are hand-tightened. Applying wrench torque strips the threads. Hand-tight plus a quarter-turn is the correct spec.
- Positioning the jack too high with a 60″ model. The extra 12 inches of a 60″ Hi-Lift compared to a 48″ puts the head directly in taillight territory. Always open the door to full swing before finalizing position with a longer jack.
Maintenance and Long-Term Reliability
The clamp system requires minimal ongoing attention. Inspect the M4 screws and M8 knobs after your first off-road trip to confirm nothing has backed out under vibration. If you're doing trail running with sustained off-camber sections or significant articulation, check the knobs every trip until you have confidence in the torque retention.
For permanent installs where the jack won't be removed regularly, Loctite on the M4 screws provides long-term thread security. For installs where you pull the jack for regular use, omit Loctite and re-snug the M4s every few trips.
The rubber bushings will compress slightly over time. If you notice any play or minor rattle developing, check whether the bushings have worn — replacement bushings are available separately.
DVA Grenadier Recovery Accessories
Related Guides
If you're building out your Grenadier's recovery gear setup, these guides cover the broader system: